Arthur's Column

Access to Kayangan Lake

The Bay at Kayangan

Kayangan Lake is to the north east of Busuanga about an hours trip by fast boat.  One reaches it through a shallow and narrow passage over a reef and then by walking over a relatively steep mountain path (not more than 20 minutes walk) from the small settlement in the cove.

The lake is amazing – absolutely crystal clear water with little fish swimming around. One swims and feels suspended in the clear water – its unfortunate that I dont have any underwater shots to show this.

The top 30 feet of water is fresh and under that there is a brackish layer at a different temperature – apparently this makes for interesting dives although we only had masks and snorkels so I didnt experience that.  The lake is well worth a visit – its a unique experience and the views of the cove from the top of the walk are absolutely awesome!

On the way back we stopped in Coron which is the main town for lunch – crazy little place!

Coron main street

Kayangan Lake

Clear waters of Kayangan Lake

Beautiful clear waters

South Cay Island

South Cay is Busuanga Bay Lodge’s own private island!  Located about 20 minutes by fast boat or jetski or 40 minutes by the more traditional Banca, the island houses a bar with the most sophisticated toilet I have ever seen on an island!

Busuanga Bay Lodge runs a regular shuttle service to and from the island for resort guests and at Ph 3,000 per person including all you can eat and drink its a really great service!  Particularly when the bar (manned ably by Dante and his assistants) provides a never ending stream of fresh fruit cocktails (the mangos are amazing – Mango Daquiri is a must), beer, wine and spirits.

The Bar at South Cay

Lunch is typically a BBQ with fresh fish, meat and shellfish such as the local lobsters – eat as much as you can.

Activities included kayaking, snorkelling (fantastic clear waters on a coral reef), jetskiing, sailing (Hobie Cat), volleyball and generally hanging around and having a good time!

We were fortunate to be able to spend boxing day evening on the island where the resort laid on an amazing party including fire dancing, a massive bonfire, and music to wile the night away. The party developed somewhat into the later hours – not sure that was on the agenda!

The Bar at South Cay

Beach Volleyball

Boxing night bonfire

D’Divers is run by the amazing Gunter with his equally amazing assistant Maria.  I only did 3 dives, but all were memorable and it was great to dive again.  The dives are very organised with all equipment supplied at a very reasonable price.

The bay of Coron is home to 15 wrecks thanks to the US Airforce taking out the Japanese supply ships towards the end of the second world war. A full account of the military action can be read here.

Pearl Bay Hotel

The first dive we did was on the Okkinawe which lies quite close to Busuanga Bay Lodge.  The wreck lies with the top deck in about 20m of water.  We dived along the deck and then down at the severed bow which was broken off in the bombing.  The wreck is covered in a variety of coral with plentiful fish life all over it.

Our second dive was Kyokuzan Maru – a wreck on its side with easily accesible penetration through the open cargo holds – also in about 20m of water.

By far my favourite dive was the Gunboat at Luzon – a very shallow wreck (the one end comes above surface at low tide) which makes it a popular snorkelling spot.  Diving at 10m we were able to avoid the tourists and witness an amazing variety of fish life and coral, with some penetration into the hull where I saw my first stonefish (dont stand on these – they cause serious damage!!!).

Nearby Hotel

D’Divers operates out of a small resort near Busuanga Bay Lodge called Pearl Bay – we island hopped to the bar for a drink one evening.

Busuanga Bay Lodge from the water

Sunset over the pool

This is the first in a multi-part series about my experience in the Phillipines at the magical Busuanga Bay Lodge resort.  I was fortunate to be able to spend an amazing 10 days exploring the resort and surrounds and have to say that it ranks as one of the most memorable holidays in my life.

The Phillipines is an island nation – many small islands often with uninhabited or only housing only a few fishermen.  It is lush and green with small sandy beaches and normally very clear waters although on our stay it was the peak of the full moon so the tidal currents caused the water to be less clear than normal. Still, in comparison to places like the med the water was clean and clear and an amazing temperature (bearing in mind that we are in mid winter!).  Busuanga Bay is on the island of Palawan voted best island in the world based on over 76,000 votes in Conde Nast Traveler’s Readers’ Choice Awards for 2014.

Our trip started with a seaplane ride from the cultural center in Manila. While one can take the less expensive trip via commercial airline to Coron and then courtesy bus or taxi to the resort I would shell out the extra (about Ph15,500) for the seaplane – not only is the scenery way better lower down but its really cool to rock up and climb aboard with no wait and then climb out at the resort dock!  And where else would a 5 year old get to drive the plane?

The dock at Busuanga Bay Lodge

We flew low over the resort and then landed in the sea close by, taxiing up to tie up at the resort dock.  Staff were on hand to sing us a welcome song, hand out drinks and take care of the bags.  We shared a waterfront twin room – I would take this again by choice – being able to sit outside in our own little garden and watch the evening creep on is a beautiful way to end the day.

Much of the resort activity (not surprisingly) revolves around the pool and the sea, with all the usual toys – jet skis, kayaks, paddle boards and boat trips on hand.  Busuanga bay and Coron Bay are also home to 15 wrecks courtesy of the US airforce taking out a Japanese supply convoy – all of which make for an array of amazing wreck dives from the shallow gunboat at to the much deeper dives where the adventurous can dive within the wreck, some at much more depth.

South Cay Exclusive Island

One can also venture inland to the local villages and via taxi or boat further afield to the main town of Coron. The resort runs regular trips too and from the South Cay island which is a private island owned by the resort – featuring a bar and lunchtime buffet, really nice beach and snorkelling and various other activities.

Our week started with a swim in the pool and sundowners while we got comfortable and got to know the staff. The staff deserve a special mention – from the manager Thomas, barmen Brian, Felix and Dante to the wait staff Cathy and her clan they were all amazingly friendly, greeting guests by name and making us feel at home.  I did prefer the “Sir” Adriaan to “Madame” Tricia (I think she felt it should be more “Lady” Tricia!).  And, incidentally, if you are wondering when you are there why you are called “Sir Adriaan Po” it is because Po is affixed to the end of a name as a sign of respect.

Cathy singing with the band

We watched the sun go down over the horizon from the pool level and ended the first magical day in this rare, unspoilt, paradise.